A simple red sauce, seasoned for marinara, enchiladas, and bravas (spicy)
Two pounds of summer tomatoes, vine ripe and tender, chopped,
or
a 28oz can of San Marzano tomatoes (including the juice). Use either crushed tomatoes, or chop the tomatoes if they’re whole.
One onion, 1/4-inch dice
A few cloves of minced garlic
Spices (see below)
Balancing acidity (see below)
Saute the onions for about five minutes in olive oil until they are fragrant and soft. Add the garlic and saute for 30 seconds. Add the spices, and saute for 1-2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, then put a cover on the pan and let it simmer for 10 minutes. If using fresh tomatoes, add a pinch of salt with the tomatoes to the pan, but if using canned tomatoes, wait on the salt for now. The tomatoes will break down into a sauce.
Check the spice level, adjusting if need be, and add the balancing acid. One note is that if you want the sauce to be hotter, add the acid first and then the extra chile. The acid tends to make the spiciness more pronounced. Add salt at the end to suit your taste.
Spices: Suggested amounts follow, but vary these according to your taste. In particular, you might like more or less heat. If you’re not sure, use an easy hand at the beginning of the recipe. You can always add more spice after the sauce is cooked.
Marinara: 1 tsp dry basil, or ten leaves fresh basil. A good pinch of red chile flakes
Enchilada: 1 tsp cumin powder (or crushed seeds), 1 tsp oregano, 1 tsp each of ancho and chipotle chile powder. If you don’t have both ancho and chipotle, it’s okay to use one or the other. Half-sharp and smoked paprika are also good substitutes, and while the flavor will be a little different, the sauce will still taste good.
Brava: 1-1/2 tsp sweet paprika, 1 tsp half-sharp paprika. If the sauce isn’t spicy enough after you cook it, add a good dash of cayenne.
Balancing acidity:
Acids help bring out the spice as well as make the sauces more piquant. Canned tomatoes taste more acidic than fresh, so you may not need as much additional acid, perhaps none at all. The amount to use varies depending on the acidity of the tomatoes, so add just a tiny bit at a time and taste as you go. Overall, you’ll probably only use 1-2 tsp total for fresh tomatoes, and perhaps less.
Marinara: No acid needed. If you used canned tomatoes and the sauce tastes acidic, add 1/4 tsp of sugar.
Enchilada: A squeeze of fresh lime juice. Squeeze a bit in, stir and taste, and add touch more if it’s needed.
Bravas: Sherry vinegar. Again, add just a touch, say 1/2 teaspoon, stir and taste, and add a touch more if needed.
Friday, December 25, 2009
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