Travis is home for a few weeks for the holidays, so we’ve shifted into lactose-isolated cooking mode. It’s easy enough to use olive oil rather than butter, or if a dish has cheese, say feta on a salad, to serve it on the side. I usually avoid baking when he’s home because so many recipes use milk and butter, but last night had a craving for popovers to go with the vegetable stew we were making.
Popovers use a simple egg-milk-butter flour, and a dairy-free version would need to substitute something for the milk. I made cornbread for Travis at Thanksgiving, substituting water for milk in the batter, and while the flavor was okay the texture was a bit tough. Milk adds something to the recipe that water does not, and my guess is that the protein and fat in milk are important in baking. I’m haven’t researched this, but in thinking about the texture of water-based baked goods like bread, as opposed to milk-based baked goods like cake, logically the composition of milk makes a difference. Credit to Aaron on the solution for the popovers; he suggested adding an extra egg to add protein and fat, and reducing the amount of water accordingly.
The substitution worked. The popovers really popped -- they were well puffed, light, crisp and delicate. The flavor was slightly more eggy than normal, but in a pleasant, subtle way.
If you need a recipe, try Mark Bittman’s version from the New York Times. To make the recipe lactose-free, substitute 1 cup milk with 1 egg and 3/4 cup water. (You’ll have three eggs total, then.) Also, substitute olive oil for butter in the recipe, and also in preparing the pan. By the way, a little oil or butter goes a long way. He suggests a teaspoon per muffin-cup, but I find this makes the popovers greasy and instead just generously oil the cups.
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Friday, December 25, 2009
Red Sauce Three Ways
I made enchilada sauce from scratch for the first time this summer. I’m not sure why I’d not made it before, perhaps because we rarely eat enchiladas, or perhaps I thought it would be a long, complicated process. I (more or less) followed a recipe from Annie Somerville’s “Field of Greens” cookbook, which describes a basic red tomato sauce (marinara) with appropriate seasonings of oregano, cumin, ancho and chipotle chile and lime. The sauce was quick and easy to make, and incredibly delicious not just on the stuffed peppers (the original destination) but on scrambled eggs the next morning.
Then in November while in New York, we ate some of the best patatas bravas ever at Buceo 95. The sauce was over the top: spicy, flavorful, addictive. The chef said he used paprika as the only spice. I wanted to make a batch of the sauce to go with latkes for the holiday meal this year, sort of a Jewish/Spanish fusion, so researched recipes to get a sense of how to proceed. The recipes that most closely resembled the sauce at Buceo 95 follow the same idea -- a basic red tomato sauce with spice. (Traditionalists have no fear. There is sour cream and applesauce to go with the latkes as well.) The main variation in this sauce is that after cooking I put it through the food processor to make a puree, a departure from the chunkier enchilada and marinara versions.
Marina is a staple ingredient in my kitchen, not just for pasta, but for poaching eggs, tossing with vegetables and tofu, or whatever. It only takes about 15 minutes to make a batch from scratch, using fresh tomatoes in the summer and good quality canned tomatoes in the winter, and freezing leftovers for an even quicker meal later. I hadn’t thought of red sauce as a multicultural ingredient, and am intrigued by how many ways it can be varied. The recipes are more of a “throw things in the pan” experience than an engineering project, but some ideas are posted here.
Then in November while in New York, we ate some of the best patatas bravas ever at Buceo 95. The sauce was over the top: spicy, flavorful, addictive. The chef said he used paprika as the only spice. I wanted to make a batch of the sauce to go with latkes for the holiday meal this year, sort of a Jewish/Spanish fusion, so researched recipes to get a sense of how to proceed. The recipes that most closely resembled the sauce at Buceo 95 follow the same idea -- a basic red tomato sauce with spice. (Traditionalists have no fear. There is sour cream and applesauce to go with the latkes as well.) The main variation in this sauce is that after cooking I put it through the food processor to make a puree, a departure from the chunkier enchilada and marinara versions.
Marina is a staple ingredient in my kitchen, not just for pasta, but for poaching eggs, tossing with vegetables and tofu, or whatever. It only takes about 15 minutes to make a batch from scratch, using fresh tomatoes in the summer and good quality canned tomatoes in the winter, and freezing leftovers for an even quicker meal later. I hadn’t thought of red sauce as a multicultural ingredient, and am intrigued by how many ways it can be varied. The recipes are more of a “throw things in the pan” experience than an engineering project, but some ideas are posted here.
Recipe: Red Sauce Three Ways
A simple red sauce, seasoned for marinara, enchiladas, and bravas (spicy)
Two pounds of summer tomatoes, vine ripe and tender, chopped,
or
a 28oz can of San Marzano tomatoes (including the juice). Use either crushed tomatoes, or chop the tomatoes if they’re whole.
One onion, 1/4-inch dice
A few cloves of minced garlic
Spices (see below)
Balancing acidity (see below)
Saute the onions for about five minutes in olive oil until they are fragrant and soft. Add the garlic and saute for 30 seconds. Add the spices, and saute for 1-2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, then put a cover on the pan and let it simmer for 10 minutes. If using fresh tomatoes, add a pinch of salt with the tomatoes to the pan, but if using canned tomatoes, wait on the salt for now. The tomatoes will break down into a sauce.
Check the spice level, adjusting if need be, and add the balancing acid. One note is that if you want the sauce to be hotter, add the acid first and then the extra chile. The acid tends to make the spiciness more pronounced. Add salt at the end to suit your taste.
Spices: Suggested amounts follow, but vary these according to your taste. In particular, you might like more or less heat. If you’re not sure, use an easy hand at the beginning of the recipe. You can always add more spice after the sauce is cooked.
Marinara: 1 tsp dry basil, or ten leaves fresh basil. A good pinch of red chile flakes
Enchilada: 1 tsp cumin powder (or crushed seeds), 1 tsp oregano, 1 tsp each of ancho and chipotle chile powder. If you don’t have both ancho and chipotle, it’s okay to use one or the other. Half-sharp and smoked paprika are also good substitutes, and while the flavor will be a little different, the sauce will still taste good.
Brava: 1-1/2 tsp sweet paprika, 1 tsp half-sharp paprika. If the sauce isn’t spicy enough after you cook it, add a good dash of cayenne.
Balancing acidity:
Acids help bring out the spice as well as make the sauces more piquant. Canned tomatoes taste more acidic than fresh, so you may not need as much additional acid, perhaps none at all. The amount to use varies depending on the acidity of the tomatoes, so add just a tiny bit at a time and taste as you go. Overall, you’ll probably only use 1-2 tsp total for fresh tomatoes, and perhaps less.
Marinara: No acid needed. If you used canned tomatoes and the sauce tastes acidic, add 1/4 tsp of sugar.
Enchilada: A squeeze of fresh lime juice. Squeeze a bit in, stir and taste, and add touch more if it’s needed.
Bravas: Sherry vinegar. Again, add just a touch, say 1/2 teaspoon, stir and taste, and add a touch more if needed.
Two pounds of summer tomatoes, vine ripe and tender, chopped,
or
a 28oz can of San Marzano tomatoes (including the juice). Use either crushed tomatoes, or chop the tomatoes if they’re whole.
One onion, 1/4-inch dice
A few cloves of minced garlic
Spices (see below)
Balancing acidity (see below)
Saute the onions for about five minutes in olive oil until they are fragrant and soft. Add the garlic and saute for 30 seconds. Add the spices, and saute for 1-2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, then put a cover on the pan and let it simmer for 10 minutes. If using fresh tomatoes, add a pinch of salt with the tomatoes to the pan, but if using canned tomatoes, wait on the salt for now. The tomatoes will break down into a sauce.
Check the spice level, adjusting if need be, and add the balancing acid. One note is that if you want the sauce to be hotter, add the acid first and then the extra chile. The acid tends to make the spiciness more pronounced. Add salt at the end to suit your taste.
Spices: Suggested amounts follow, but vary these according to your taste. In particular, you might like more or less heat. If you’re not sure, use an easy hand at the beginning of the recipe. You can always add more spice after the sauce is cooked.
Marinara: 1 tsp dry basil, or ten leaves fresh basil. A good pinch of red chile flakes
Enchilada: 1 tsp cumin powder (or crushed seeds), 1 tsp oregano, 1 tsp each of ancho and chipotle chile powder. If you don’t have both ancho and chipotle, it’s okay to use one or the other. Half-sharp and smoked paprika are also good substitutes, and while the flavor will be a little different, the sauce will still taste good.
Brava: 1-1/2 tsp sweet paprika, 1 tsp half-sharp paprika. If the sauce isn’t spicy enough after you cook it, add a good dash of cayenne.
Balancing acidity:
Acids help bring out the spice as well as make the sauces more piquant. Canned tomatoes taste more acidic than fresh, so you may not need as much additional acid, perhaps none at all. The amount to use varies depending on the acidity of the tomatoes, so add just a tiny bit at a time and taste as you go. Overall, you’ll probably only use 1-2 tsp total for fresh tomatoes, and perhaps less.
Marinara: No acid needed. If you used canned tomatoes and the sauce tastes acidic, add 1/4 tsp of sugar.
Enchilada: A squeeze of fresh lime juice. Squeeze a bit in, stir and taste, and add touch more if it’s needed.
Bravas: Sherry vinegar. Again, add just a touch, say 1/2 teaspoon, stir and taste, and add a touch more if needed.
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Recipe: Leek and Celeriac Soup
Recipe: Leek and Celeriac Soup
6 leeks, trimmed, sliced and washed, white and light green parts only
1 bulb celeriac, peeled and cubed
6 cups vegetable stock
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon tarragon
Salt and pepper to taste
Dash of cream or half and half, optional
Saute the leeks gently in butter or olive oil until they are fragrant and soft. Add the celeriac, tarragon and stock, and simmer until vegetables are tender, approximately 20 minutes. Using an immersion blender or food processor, process the soup until it is creamy and completely emulsified. Stir in the mustard, a pinch of salt, and a good grind of black pepper. Taste and adjust the seasonings to your liking, but use a gentle hand so the flavor of the leek and celery isn't masked.
When serving, add a tablespoon or two of cream or half and half, if you like, and swirl.
Sunday, December 13, 2009
Ten days of soup, part 2
After a break of a few days while we worked through leftovers, the “ten days of soup” project resumed. We’ve been able to expand slightly beyond soup, happily, though not too far beyond, while Aaron progresses through his orthodontic adventure. The goal of the project is to make food interesting and tasty given the soup limitation.
All the soups start with a homemade vegetable stock. For now, most soups are blended with an immersion blender.
Day 6: split pea, made on a cold, rainy day. I started making split pea soup in the pressure cooker a few years ago. This has two advantages. The beans don’t need to soak and cook quickly, so it only takes an hour to make a pot which means I don’t need to plan when I want to make it. The other advantage is that the soup tastes great, better even, than the traditional long-cooked method. I think this is because pressure cooker holds flavor in rather than releasing it.
Day 7: leek and celeriac. I cooked with celeriac for the first time last week and just loved it. This week, I sauted 10 small leeks (a few cups), then added the celeriac, stock and tarragon. The soup was finished with just a bit of dijon mustard and cream. View the Recipe
Day 8: parmesan souffle with marinara sauce. I had a parmesan souffle a few weeks ago at Le Monde in New York. It was served with a heavenly sauce, but in looking at recipes this week I discovered the sauce tasted so good because it was based on butter, rounded out with cheese, cream, and lemon. I like the idea of a sauce with souffle but needed to lower the guilt level. In late summer I made and froze a big batch of marinara, made with ripe summer tomatoes from the farmers market, to tide us over through the winter. It made a perfect sauce for the parmesan souffle, balancing the richness with some acidity and freshness.
Day 9: Polenta with chard and chevre -- comfort food. It wasn’t a soup, but close enough.
Day 10: Beet, tomato and cabbage with a Hungarian flair. The beets roasted with red onions, olive oil and sweet paprika to caramelize the vegetables and toast the paprika. This was simmered and pureed smooth in stock, and then crushed San Marzano pomodoro and regular green cabbage, finely chopped, went in. The soup was finished with half-sharp paprika to give a bit of heat.
All the soups start with a homemade vegetable stock. For now, most soups are blended with an immersion blender.
Day 6: split pea, made on a cold, rainy day. I started making split pea soup in the pressure cooker a few years ago. This has two advantages. The beans don’t need to soak and cook quickly, so it only takes an hour to make a pot which means I don’t need to plan when I want to make it. The other advantage is that the soup tastes great, better even, than the traditional long-cooked method. I think this is because pressure cooker holds flavor in rather than releasing it.
Day 7: leek and celeriac. I cooked with celeriac for the first time last week and just loved it. This week, I sauted 10 small leeks (a few cups), then added the celeriac, stock and tarragon. The soup was finished with just a bit of dijon mustard and cream. View the Recipe
Day 8: parmesan souffle with marinara sauce. I had a parmesan souffle a few weeks ago at Le Monde in New York. It was served with a heavenly sauce, but in looking at recipes this week I discovered the sauce tasted so good because it was based on butter, rounded out with cheese, cream, and lemon. I like the idea of a sauce with souffle but needed to lower the guilt level. In late summer I made and froze a big batch of marinara, made with ripe summer tomatoes from the farmers market, to tide us over through the winter. It made a perfect sauce for the parmesan souffle, balancing the richness with some acidity and freshness.
Day 9: Polenta with chard and chevre -- comfort food. It wasn’t a soup, but close enough.
Day 10: Beet, tomato and cabbage with a Hungarian flair. The beets roasted with red onions, olive oil and sweet paprika to caramelize the vegetables and toast the paprika. This was simmered and pureed smooth in stock, and then crushed San Marzano pomodoro and regular green cabbage, finely chopped, went in. The soup was finished with half-sharp paprika to give a bit of heat.
Monday, December 7, 2009
Ten days of soup, part 1
Aaron can’t chew for at least ten days, a byproduct of orthodontic work, and is limited to smoothies and pureed soup for the while. I love soup so this is no problem for me, and have taken on the challenge to make the ten days of eating the same thing as interesting as possible, varied and tasty.
Because the soups need to be pureed, all rely on a homemade stock and cooked vegetables, blended with the immersion blender.
Day 1: Butternut squash, flavored with the chipotle-adobo sauce I’m so enchanted with, and finished with a dash of half-and-half to smooth the chile flavor.
Day 2: Celeriac. I hadn’t cooked with celeriac before, but had it on the list to try since last year’s trip to Paris, where it is served as a side salad in many cafes. I used it as the main flavoring in this soup, and it has a lovely, delicate celery flavor. The soup was finished with a touch of dijon mustard, a play on the typical french style of dressing served with the raw vegetable. Celeriac is my new favorite soup base, not only because of the flavor, but because it has a silky texture when pureed and a fraction of the calories and carbs of potatoes. It’s a perfect replacement for potato in soup.
Day 3: Mushroom, made with portobello and crimini in a long-simmered stock and pureed into smithereens. I added chanterelle toward the end and did second, lighter puree. Finished with just a touch of dry sherry and cream.
Day 4: Tomato-pepper, with roasted red and yellow onions, garlic and red peppers with olive oil and a teaspoon of half-sharp paprika. The paprika toasted while the vegetables roasted. If summer tomatoes were available I would have roasted them as well, but used a can of San Marzano pomodoro, which are a lot more flavorful than winter tomatoes.
Because the soups need to be pureed, all rely on a homemade stock and cooked vegetables, blended with the immersion blender.
Day 1: Butternut squash, flavored with the chipotle-adobo sauce I’m so enchanted with, and finished with a dash of half-and-half to smooth the chile flavor.
Day 2: Celeriac. I hadn’t cooked with celeriac before, but had it on the list to try since last year’s trip to Paris, where it is served as a side salad in many cafes. I used it as the main flavoring in this soup, and it has a lovely, delicate celery flavor. The soup was finished with a touch of dijon mustard, a play on the typical french style of dressing served with the raw vegetable. Celeriac is my new favorite soup base, not only because of the flavor, but because it has a silky texture when pureed and a fraction of the calories and carbs of potatoes. It’s a perfect replacement for potato in soup.
Day 3: Mushroom, made with portobello and crimini in a long-simmered stock and pureed into smithereens. I added chanterelle toward the end and did second, lighter puree. Finished with just a touch of dry sherry and cream.
Day 4: Tomato-pepper, with roasted red and yellow onions, garlic and red peppers with olive oil and a teaspoon of half-sharp paprika. The paprika toasted while the vegetables roasted. If summer tomatoes were available I would have roasted them as well, but used a can of San Marzano pomodoro, which are a lot more flavorful than winter tomatoes.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Indian-American Fusion Thanksgiving
Shashi arrived with four bags of groceries, and along with Aaron, Travis, and three of his friends, we settled into an afternoon of cooking. Nearly every dish started with the same four ingredients, a mix of diced onion, garlic, ginger and green chiles. However, spices varied the flavors so each dish was unique and savory. Shashi guided us through several dishes and accompanying chutney, including eggplant stuffed with peanuts and coconut, green beans, cauliflower and tofu balls, and a fabulous pumpkin and turnip soup with North African spices. All of her cooking is done by feel, with tasting along the way to balance the heat and spices.
One interesting note is that each dish balanced heat, sweet, savory and salt for a complex flavor. For example, we made chapati with a base of zucchini, mint, cilantro, garlic and chile, pureed in the food processor, then kneaded with whole wheat flour, rolled into flat bread and grilled. The chapati were flavorful with a background sweetness and heat from the mint and chile, and a calm counterpoint to some of the more robust flavors.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Homemade pizza
Aaron and I have a tradition of making homemade pizza on the night before Thanksgiving. It's usually just the two of us at home (a quiet evening before the crowd arrives the next day) and we make pizza from scratch, put on a fire, open a bottle of wine and watch movies.
This year Aaron cooked. He made two pizzas, a simple margherita with tomato and basil, and one topped with chanterelles and dandelion greens. The greens were a last minute addition, but were an inspired choice to add a bitter element to the earthiness of the mushrooms.
This year Aaron cooked. He made two pizzas, a simple margherita with tomato and basil, and one topped with chanterelles and dandelion greens. The greens were a last minute addition, but were an inspired choice to add a bitter element to the earthiness of the mushrooms.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Buceo 95
Aaron and I spent a week in New York recently and tried some new wine and tapas bars. We like tapas because they give a chance to try several different foods rather than settling on one big plate of something. Also, it’s a lot of fun to sip a glass of wine while nibbling on a few bites of this and that, with freedom to leave after a short while if we want to try something different, or linger for a second glass if we like. Wine bars typically have an interesting, unusual selection of wine by the glass, and if the staff have time, they’re usually happy to chat about the wines, wineries, and growing regions. All in all, it’s a great way to spend an hour in the evening.
My favorite newly discovered wine bar is Buceo 95, on the upper west side at 95th and Amsterdam. Buceo 95 advertises itself as Barcelona off Broadway; the food is strongly influenced by Spain. Oyster mushrooms with a sherry-balsamic reduction are a standout dish, so delicious that we went back to the restaurant a second time just to get another plate of them. Everything we tried was well prepared, with asparagus just the right level of doneness, and patatas bravas that could become an addiction.
The first time we went was early enough in the evening that we beat the crowd. The waiter was helpful in selecting food and wine, and sent the sommelier over to visit as well. He told us about his recent buying trip to Spain where he found two Raspay monastrells (2003) from the same grape but done in completely different styles. He poured tastes for us, one of which was smooth and spicy, while the best way to describe the other is funky, sort of with a mushroom taste. Aaron was wild about the funky one.
The second time we went it was close to midnight, after the theater, and happily the kitchen was still open. While the restaurant was still lively even at a late hour, the waiter stopped to talk several times, and again was happy to share his knowledge of the wines and give us tastes of ones he likes. His recommendation was the AN/2 Anima Negra from Mallorca, a wine in the newer style, spicy, fruity and terrific. The chef was hanging out at the bar and told me about the spices used for the patatas bravas. I haven't tried to recreate the sauce yet, but it's on the to-do list.
Aaron made a version of the mushrooms after we got home. He gave a quick sear to oyster mushrooms with oil, butter and dry sherry. After the mushrooms cooked he added another splash of sherry and a dash reduced balsamic vinegar. Perfect.
My favorite newly discovered wine bar is Buceo 95, on the upper west side at 95th and Amsterdam. Buceo 95 advertises itself as Barcelona off Broadway; the food is strongly influenced by Spain. Oyster mushrooms with a sherry-balsamic reduction are a standout dish, so delicious that we went back to the restaurant a second time just to get another plate of them. Everything we tried was well prepared, with asparagus just the right level of doneness, and patatas bravas that could become an addiction.
The first time we went was early enough in the evening that we beat the crowd. The waiter was helpful in selecting food and wine, and sent the sommelier over to visit as well. He told us about his recent buying trip to Spain where he found two Raspay monastrells (2003) from the same grape but done in completely different styles. He poured tastes for us, one of which was smooth and spicy, while the best way to describe the other is funky, sort of with a mushroom taste. Aaron was wild about the funky one.
The second time we went it was close to midnight, after the theater, and happily the kitchen was still open. While the restaurant was still lively even at a late hour, the waiter stopped to talk several times, and again was happy to share his knowledge of the wines and give us tastes of ones he likes. His recommendation was the AN/2 Anima Negra from Mallorca, a wine in the newer style, spicy, fruity and terrific. The chef was hanging out at the bar and told me about the spices used for the patatas bravas. I haven't tried to recreate the sauce yet, but it's on the to-do list.
Aaron made a version of the mushrooms after we got home. He gave a quick sear to oyster mushrooms with oil, butter and dry sherry. After the mushrooms cooked he added another splash of sherry and a dash reduced balsamic vinegar. Perfect.
Friday, November 20, 2009
The non-dairy pumpkin pie experiments
We're accommodating both lactose and gluten allergies this year, so I plan to make two variations on a pie. One will be a traditional pie with a ginger snap crust for those who want a traditional pie, and the second a baked custard with cinnamon-sugar pecans on top, gluten-free but still in the Thanksgiving tradition.
Variation 1: Pumpkin pie with silken tofu and egg
This is the most like traditional pumpkin pie in texture. It makes a dense, creamy custard, with a traditional taste and feel. This is my favorite variation.
1 15 oz can pumpkin
1 package silken tofu
2 eggs
3/4 c. sugar
1/2 t. vanilla extract
1 t. cinnamon
1/2 t ground ginger
1/2 t allspice
1/4 t nutmeg
pinch salt
Beat the ingredients in a food processor. A mixer won’t do it -- the food processor is necessary to get the tofu fully blended. Bake at 375 until a knife comes out clean.
Variation 2: Pumpkin pie with silken tofu (no egg)
Same as above, except no eggs. The custard is more delicate and less well bound. The mouth feel is fine and it doesn’t fall apart while eating it, and the flavor is indistinguishable from traditional pumpkin pie. It just feels a bit more like baked pumpkin and a bit less like custard. I would have no problem serving this as part a vegan dinner, or if someone had an egg allergy, but would opt for the pie with egg otherwise.
Variation 3: Pumpkin pie with egg (no tofu)
This variation was shared by Becky Boutch, based on her modification of a recipe from The Millennium Cookbook by Eric Tucker & John Westerdahl (Ten Speed Press, 1998).
The texture and feel of this custard was quite nice, proving the egg makes the difference. I didn’t care for the molasses so will eliminate it when making this again. It actually wasn’t bad. It just tasted more like an Indian pudding than a pumpkin pie. Without the molasses this is a strong finisher in second place, and because we need to avoid tofu this year, this is the version we’ll use next week for Thanksgiving.
1-1/2 cups pumpkin puree
2/3 cup pure maple syrup
3 tablespoons molasses
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon minced or grated fresh ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
2 eggs
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Brussels sprouts, mushroom and apple salad
I had dinner a few weeks ago with at Rioja in Denver with my friend Mara. We had both been working all day and through the evening, so it was late before we set out, hungry and tired, in search of food. It was one of those times when just finding a warm, quiet meal would have been fine, so landing in this gem of a restaurant was especially nice. Rioja was packed and we didn’t have reservations, but the host found us two seats at the bar facing the kitchen where we could watch the cooking, and as it turned out, chat up the chef.
My dinner was great -- a quartet of vegetarian small plates with a brie ravioli, onion puree, broccoli rabe and acorn squash, and my favorite, tempura green beans and preserved lemons. I’d not have thought of preserved lemons as a tempura, but it gave a refreshing tartness in an otherwise mellow set of dishes. Dinner was interesting, light and tasty.
Mara’s dinner is the one that really caught my imagination. She had a brussels sprout salad with an apple and pancetta vinaigrette, served over roasted acorn squash. I didn’t ask for a taste because of the pancetta, but she raved about the salad, especially the apples, and asked the chef how they were prepared. He said the diced apples are marinated in a ginger vinaigrette for four hours, then quickly sauted with the already-rendered pancetta.
I’ve worked up a vegetarian version of the salad since returning home, which probably isn’t quite the same but good nonetheless. A fast saute on mushrooms gives a salty, earthy bite to the salad, replacing the pancetta. I haven’t used squash at home, but some diced, roasted winter squash would make a great addition.
Brussels sprouts, apple and mushroom salad
Brussels sprouts, chopped into 1/4 inch strips. Saute gently in a small amount of stock so that it cooks off in about five minutes just as the sprouts are getting tender.
Apples, 1/2 dice, marinated in champagne vinegar and ginger for four hours. I use a few tablespoons of vinegar and a teaspoon of grated ginger, and toss the apples every so often. Drain the apples and toss into the sprouts just before cooking is done to get them warm.
Crimini mushrooms, chopped into 1/2 inch chunks. Sear the mushrooms in olive oil and salt in a hot pan. You want to get a nice brown crispness without too much moisture loss.
Assemble the salad:
Use a bed of rocket, spinach or other sturdy greens. Toss a bit of olive oil and pepper into the sprout-apple mixture, then pile it warm on the greens. Top with parmesan cheese cut into curls with a vegetable grater. Put the hot mushrooms on top. Finish with a light drizzle of reduced balsamic vinegar.
My dinner was great -- a quartet of vegetarian small plates with a brie ravioli, onion puree, broccoli rabe and acorn squash, and my favorite, tempura green beans and preserved lemons. I’d not have thought of preserved lemons as a tempura, but it gave a refreshing tartness in an otherwise mellow set of dishes. Dinner was interesting, light and tasty.
Mara’s dinner is the one that really caught my imagination. She had a brussels sprout salad with an apple and pancetta vinaigrette, served over roasted acorn squash. I didn’t ask for a taste because of the pancetta, but she raved about the salad, especially the apples, and asked the chef how they were prepared. He said the diced apples are marinated in a ginger vinaigrette for four hours, then quickly sauted with the already-rendered pancetta.
I’ve worked up a vegetarian version of the salad since returning home, which probably isn’t quite the same but good nonetheless. A fast saute on mushrooms gives a salty, earthy bite to the salad, replacing the pancetta. I haven’t used squash at home, but some diced, roasted winter squash would make a great addition.
Brussels sprouts, apple and mushroom salad
Brussels sprouts, chopped into 1/4 inch strips. Saute gently in a small amount of stock so that it cooks off in about five minutes just as the sprouts are getting tender.
Apples, 1/2 dice, marinated in champagne vinegar and ginger for four hours. I use a few tablespoons of vinegar and a teaspoon of grated ginger, and toss the apples every so often. Drain the apples and toss into the sprouts just before cooking is done to get them warm.
Crimini mushrooms, chopped into 1/2 inch chunks. Sear the mushrooms in olive oil and salt in a hot pan. You want to get a nice brown crispness without too much moisture loss.
Assemble the salad:
Use a bed of rocket, spinach or other sturdy greens. Toss a bit of olive oil and pepper into the sprout-apple mixture, then pile it warm on the greens. Top with parmesan cheese cut into curls with a vegetable grater. Put the hot mushrooms on top. Finish with a light drizzle of reduced balsamic vinegar.
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Butternut squash and pepper stew
After a gorgeous, sunny fall in the bay area, cold weather hit for a few days this week. I bundled in sweaters and brought out the soup pot. Actually, even though it was sunny and warm last week I made a southwestern stew, so the soup pot hadn't been hibernating. There's just something satisfying about making a big pot of soup when it's cold outside. Last week I was browsing the Everyday Greens cookbook last week and was inspired by two stew recipes with similar vegetables (roasted butternut squash and red peppers), but with very different flavor profiles. One was heavily spiced with chiles, while the other relied on the natural flavors of the vegetables. After making the spiced stew last week, this week I used the same vegetables but with a different flavor profile.
For the non-spiced stew I used a sweet vegetable mix of onion, fennel, red, yellow and orange bell peppers, and roasted butternut squash, with some of the stock we make in batches and keep in the freezer. This was rounded out with chard roasted plum tomatoes and cannelli beans. About the plum tomatoes...the tomatoes were dense and thick skinned, better for cooking than for eating raw. I roasted halves face down with a little olive oil and salt on the exposed skins. The skin and innards of the tomatoes separated, and while the meat went into the stew pot, the skins made tasty snacking right off the roasting pan. It was sort of like eating potato skins with some tooth and salt, but with more flavor and less guilt.
The usual chopping, roasting and simmering ensued, and as the stew simmered the beans broke up to make a slightly thickened sauce. White wine, garlic and salt were the only spices, and the flavors of the vegetables merged beautifully. Next time I'll add some mushrooms as well; they would add a nice earthiness. The stew was great as it was, but also on the sweet side because of the peppers, fennel and squash. However, Aaron made pesto last month using the last of the sweet and lemon basil from the garden. He froze it in small portions so we have doses of lemon-basil pesto for the winter. We plopped a dollop on each bowl of stew, and the aroma and taste balanced the dish perfectly.
The stew was rounded out with a glass of petite syrah and a fire...perfect for the first real night of fall.
For the non-spiced stew I used a sweet vegetable mix of onion, fennel, red, yellow and orange bell peppers, and roasted butternut squash, with some of the stock we make in batches and keep in the freezer. This was rounded out with chard roasted plum tomatoes and cannelli beans. About the plum tomatoes...the tomatoes were dense and thick skinned, better for cooking than for eating raw. I roasted halves face down with a little olive oil and salt on the exposed skins. The skin and innards of the tomatoes separated, and while the meat went into the stew pot, the skins made tasty snacking right off the roasting pan. It was sort of like eating potato skins with some tooth and salt, but with more flavor and less guilt.
The usual chopping, roasting and simmering ensued, and as the stew simmered the beans broke up to make a slightly thickened sauce. White wine, garlic and salt were the only spices, and the flavors of the vegetables merged beautifully. Next time I'll add some mushrooms as well; they would add a nice earthiness. The stew was great as it was, but also on the sweet side because of the peppers, fennel and squash. However, Aaron made pesto last month using the last of the sweet and lemon basil from the garden. He froze it in small portions so we have doses of lemon-basil pesto for the winter. We plopped a dollop on each bowl of stew, and the aroma and taste balanced the dish perfectly.
The stew was rounded out with a glass of petite syrah and a fire...perfect for the first real night of fall.
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Chipotle-adobo puree
The puree packs a punch, both in flavor and spice level, so needs an easy hand. Happily, since I like spice, it can be used as a spread or topping as well as an ingredient. It’s made its way into breakfast a few times this week, and will star in dinner some evening soon with the pasillo peppers we picked up at the farmers' market this morning.
The southwestern stew is based on a recipe in Everyday Greens. Chopping, roasting and simmering ensued, though it only took about an hour. The sauce is what really makes this stew special. It’s a plantain and tomato base with garlic, cumin, ancho chiles and the chipotle-adobo puree. I used roasted butternut squash, green beans, onions, a yellow pepper, and the hominy for this version, but anything seasonal and with a sweet and savory mix will do. The colors are absolutely gorgeous.
Friday, October 23, 2009
End of summer vegetable stock
Friday, October 16, 2009
The antidote for travel
Aaron and I did an overnight trip to Phoenix this week. The hotel concierge recommended a chain, Z Tejas, nearby, for dinner. Actually, I asked where to get a good margarita and some food, it being one of those days when a good margarita was going to be the high point. The concierge made the recommendation with confidence, so it’s likely he’d done some research into margaritas. You have to appreciate expertise. Indeed, the margaritas were just fine, and Z Tejas has surprisingly good wild mushroom enchiladas that I’m going to have to try to recreate at some point.
Our travel schedule was such that we grabbed lunch on the run at Phoenix airport two days in a row. Vegetarian options are limited, so it was a bean burrito for me each day. We were feeling all the heavy carbs and salt by the time we got home.
Aaron’s antidote for travel was a broccoli rabe soup, inspired by a recipe in Sunset magazine. Simple, nourishing, and not a refried bean in sight. He used a vegetable stock flavored with julienned ginger and red jalapeno rings. The stock didn’t pick up much of the vegetable taste, just a hint, but he left the spices in to eat later. He added scallions, a lot of chopped broccoli rabe (stems, leaves and flowers all went in), fresh tofu. The recipe calls for ham which would give it salt, but instead he finished it with just a dash of soy sauce, and added a squeeze of lime for brightness. Every bite had a different flavor or density depending on what part of the broccoli or what spice was in it. Delicious.
Our travel schedule was such that we grabbed lunch on the run at Phoenix airport two days in a row. Vegetarian options are limited, so it was a bean burrito for me each day. We were feeling all the heavy carbs and salt by the time we got home.
Aaron’s antidote for travel was a broccoli rabe soup, inspired by a recipe in Sunset magazine. Simple, nourishing, and not a refried bean in sight. He used a vegetable stock flavored with julienned ginger and red jalapeno rings. The stock didn’t pick up much of the vegetable taste, just a hint, but he left the spices in to eat later. He added scallions, a lot of chopped broccoli rabe (stems, leaves and flowers all went in), fresh tofu. The recipe calls for ham which would give it salt, but instead he finished it with just a dash of soy sauce, and added a squeeze of lime for brightness. Every bite had a different flavor or density depending on what part of the broccoli or what spice was in it. Delicious.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Why Aaron is blogging
I started cooking when living on my own in college and realized that it was a lot less expensive to make my own spaghetti sauce from scratch than paying $1.00 for a little packet of spaghetti helper. It seemed a lot to pay for a little packet of spices and I still had to buy the hamburger, tomatoes and such. I read the label and figured out that for a small investment in some spices I could do the same thing for a lot less. You can do a lot with just salt, pepper, oregano, thyme, garlic, and tomatoes. Spaghetti sauce, stews, chili. Make a big pot and eat for a week. Beats going to McDonalds, even if a burger was only 50 cents then.
Learning to cook has always been easy. Food is a sensual experience, I love going to the market and seeing the produce or meats out on display. If I lived in Europe, France or Italy I would go to market each day. Lois buys for the week, I buy for the moment.
The problem is that cooking is easy, so I have fallen on bad habits. Cooking is so easy for me that I tend not to think about it in a really thoughtful way. Thus the blog. It is a way to focus on food, cooking, and the eating experience. Think about where my food comes from, how I prepare it, even how I eat it. Reflection is part of the learning process. So this is for me. If you get something out of it, that's cool too.
Learning to cook has always been easy. Food is a sensual experience, I love going to the market and seeing the produce or meats out on display. If I lived in Europe, France or Italy I would go to market each day. Lois buys for the week, I buy for the moment.
The problem is that cooking is easy, so I have fallen on bad habits. Cooking is so easy for me that I tend not to think about it in a really thoughtful way. Thus the blog. It is a way to focus on food, cooking, and the eating experience. Think about where my food comes from, how I prepare it, even how I eat it. Reflection is part of the learning process. So this is for me. If you get something out of it, that's cool too.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Stuffed chiles
A farmer at the Palo Alto market has a small table with just a few vegetables, including poblano chiles. I'm not sure how the economics work out for him because a bag of chiles costs just two dollars, so he must need to sell a lot of chiles to make the trip worth his while. Works for me, though. I had some stuffed chiles in Santa Fe a few years ago, but had never tried making my own, so when I saw the chiles in the market bought some on a whim.
I didn't follow a recipe, but just worked by taste. The plan was to roast and clean the chiles, make a stuffing of vegetables and starch separately, and then fill the chiles and bake to get everything hot. Fortunately, the first attempt worked well, which is always nice for a new recipe.
Roasting peppers seems like fussy work, but it's actually pretty quick to do, and fun because it's hands-on and goopy. Just char the peppers over the stove flame, let them steam in a covered bowl for 15 minutes, then scrape the skins off and squeeze out the seeds. I usually wear an iPod while I cook, and learned that I need to get the electronics set before scraping and seeding the chiles. Also, chopping onions makes my eyes tear, so when I made the stuffing I had to wipe my eyes. Poblanos aren't very hot as peppers go, but the oils left on my hands got in my eyes, which made the cooking experience extra special.
Every time I make filling it's a bit different based on what's in the house or the garden. The common elements are onions and corn (fresh or frozen), and I've added black beans, red peppers, chard, tomatoes (ripe and green), and carrots in various combination. It's like vegetable soup in that any mix of ingredients you like works just fine. Certainly winter or summer squash would work nicely. Use a healthy mix of smoked and sharp ground chile (chipotle, ancho, paprika, or whatever is on hand), cumin, oregano, and garlic for spice. A dab of tomato paste adds a nice depth of flavor, and cilantro is good if you have some on hand. Saute the onions and spices, then add the other vegetables and simmer in a cup or so of stock to cook through, and then throw in a handful of rice to soak up the liquid and cook it down. I add cheese, too, tasty but not necessary. The quantity of stuffing depends on how many chiles you're stuffing, but figure on about a cup of stuffing per chile. Leftover stuffing makes a great addition to a salad for lunch the next day, by the way.
When you clean the chiles you need to split them open to get to the seeds, so when it's time to stuff them just spoon some of the filling back into the opening. I overfill so they're nice and plump, then bake opening-side-up for 15 or 20 minutes to get everything heated through.
I tried using polenta rather than rice in one iteration, thinking it would be sort tamale-esque. The flavor worked, but it was a little heavy. Also, I made a yogurt-chile sauce the first time, but it wasn't needed because the stuffing was so flavorful. Usually I just finish by throwing some grated cheese on top after baking, which melts by the time the food gets to the plate.
I didn't follow a recipe, but just worked by taste. The plan was to roast and clean the chiles, make a stuffing of vegetables and starch separately, and then fill the chiles and bake to get everything hot. Fortunately, the first attempt worked well, which is always nice for a new recipe.
Roasting peppers seems like fussy work, but it's actually pretty quick to do, and fun because it's hands-on and goopy. Just char the peppers over the stove flame, let them steam in a covered bowl for 15 minutes, then scrape the skins off and squeeze out the seeds. I usually wear an iPod while I cook, and learned that I need to get the electronics set before scraping and seeding the chiles. Also, chopping onions makes my eyes tear, so when I made the stuffing I had to wipe my eyes. Poblanos aren't very hot as peppers go, but the oils left on my hands got in my eyes, which made the cooking experience extra special.
Every time I make filling it's a bit different based on what's in the house or the garden. The common elements are onions and corn (fresh or frozen), and I've added black beans, red peppers, chard, tomatoes (ripe and green), and carrots in various combination. It's like vegetable soup in that any mix of ingredients you like works just fine. Certainly winter or summer squash would work nicely. Use a healthy mix of smoked and sharp ground chile (chipotle, ancho, paprika, or whatever is on hand), cumin, oregano, and garlic for spice. A dab of tomato paste adds a nice depth of flavor, and cilantro is good if you have some on hand. Saute the onions and spices, then add the other vegetables and simmer in a cup or so of stock to cook through, and then throw in a handful of rice to soak up the liquid and cook it down. I add cheese, too, tasty but not necessary. The quantity of stuffing depends on how many chiles you're stuffing, but figure on about a cup of stuffing per chile. Leftover stuffing makes a great addition to a salad for lunch the next day, by the way.
When you clean the chiles you need to split them open to get to the seeds, so when it's time to stuff them just spoon some of the filling back into the opening. I overfill so they're nice and plump, then bake opening-side-up for 15 or 20 minutes to get everything heated through.
I tried using polenta rather than rice in one iteration, thinking it would be sort tamale-esque. The flavor worked, but it was a little heavy. Also, I made a yogurt-chile sauce the first time, but it wasn't needed because the stuffing was so flavorful. Usually I just finish by throwing some grated cheese on top after baking, which melts by the time the food gets to the plate.
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Spaghetti Squash Gratin
I love pasta, however, Lois and I have been trying to keep to a low carb diet. Lois is lower than I am. We especially try to limit carbs for dinners.
At Sigona's vegie stand in Redwood City I saw a spaghetti squash and thought I could make something tasty for dinner. It's low carb and is a spaghetti like substance. Searching for recipes I found the ones that treated it like pasta to be either boring or too saucy (Spaghetti Squash Alfredo or Spaghetti Squash Marinara - no thanks).
The idea was to make something that preserved the texture of the squash and used some of the herbs from our garden. We have lemon basil that is needing to be used up before the first frost hits and a sage plant that is just begging me to do a pork roast (but that's another post).
I decided to do a gratin of spaghetti squash.
Preheat oven to 375.
Cut spaghetti squash in half and scoop out the seeds (this was a very strange spaghetti squash, the seeds had actually sprouted, I had never seen that before). Place the squash cut side down in a pan and add about a half inch of water. Place in oven and cooks for 30-45 minutes until a knife will easily penetrate.
Sauce:
1/2 red onion, fine dice
2-3 cloves garlic sliced thin
5-6 large sage leaves rough chopped
1/4 cup red pepper thin slices
1/2 cup fresh tomato rough chop
1/2 cup white wine
salt
a shake or two of peperoncini to taste
2 tbsp olive oil
On high heat get the oil hot, add the garlic and sage for about 30 seconds, then add the onions, peppers, and salt and cook until the onions are soft, add the tomato, wine and peperoncini. Cook until the tomatoes are incorporated and the liquid has reduced down to a thick sauce.
The idea here is to add a bit of tomato but not overpower the final dish with a heavy sauce.
When the spaghetti squash is soft, remove from the oven and using a fork scoop out the squash. The squash will come out in stringy bits, thus the name.
4 Cups cooked spaghetti squash
2 tbsp rough chopped sage
1/4 cup chopped lemon basil (regular basil is fine, but we had the lemon stuff)
3/4 cup grated parmesan reggiano
1/4 cup panko bread crumbs
salt and pepper
Put the cooked squash in a large saute pan and mix in the sauce, sage, basil, a little salt and a good grind of pepper. Heat and reduce out any liquid, this is a pretty dry mixture. Turn the heat off and mix in 1/2 cup of the parmesan cheese. Put this into a greased 2 quart gratin pan. Cover with a mixture of the panko and remaining cheese.
About 30-40 minutes in the 375 oven until the top is brown.
Serve with a salad and you have dinner. I was really happy with the way this came out. There was a bit of heat from the peperoncini, and a great taste of sage with a little tomato to add some acidity. Not to much cheese so it was a lite dish with a lot of flavor.
Monday, I've got plans for the leftovers!
At Sigona's vegie stand in Redwood City I saw a spaghetti squash and thought I could make something tasty for dinner. It's low carb and is a spaghetti like substance. Searching for recipes I found the ones that treated it like pasta to be either boring or too saucy (Spaghetti Squash Alfredo or Spaghetti Squash Marinara - no thanks).
The idea was to make something that preserved the texture of the squash and used some of the herbs from our garden. We have lemon basil that is needing to be used up before the first frost hits and a sage plant that is just begging me to do a pork roast (but that's another post).
I decided to do a gratin of spaghetti squash.
Preheat oven to 375.
Cut spaghetti squash in half and scoop out the seeds (this was a very strange spaghetti squash, the seeds had actually sprouted, I had never seen that before). Place the squash cut side down in a pan and add about a half inch of water. Place in oven and cooks for 30-45 minutes until a knife will easily penetrate.
Sauce:
1/2 red onion, fine dice
2-3 cloves garlic sliced thin
5-6 large sage leaves rough chopped
1/4 cup red pepper thin slices
1/2 cup fresh tomato rough chop
1/2 cup white wine
salt
a shake or two of peperoncini to taste
2 tbsp olive oil
On high heat get the oil hot, add the garlic and sage for about 30 seconds, then add the onions, peppers, and salt and cook until the onions are soft, add the tomato, wine and peperoncini. Cook until the tomatoes are incorporated and the liquid has reduced down to a thick sauce.
The idea here is to add a bit of tomato but not overpower the final dish with a heavy sauce.
When the spaghetti squash is soft, remove from the oven and using a fork scoop out the squash. The squash will come out in stringy bits, thus the name.
4 Cups cooked spaghetti squash
2 tbsp rough chopped sage
1/4 cup chopped lemon basil (regular basil is fine, but we had the lemon stuff)
3/4 cup grated parmesan reggiano
1/4 cup panko bread crumbs
salt and pepper
Put the cooked squash in a large saute pan and mix in the sauce, sage, basil, a little salt and a good grind of pepper. Heat and reduce out any liquid, this is a pretty dry mixture. Turn the heat off and mix in 1/2 cup of the parmesan cheese. Put this into a greased 2 quart gratin pan. Cover with a mixture of the panko and remaining cheese.
About 30-40 minutes in the 375 oven until the top is brown.
Serve with a salad and you have dinner. I was really happy with the way this came out. There was a bit of heat from the peperoncini, and a great taste of sage with a little tomato to add some acidity. Not to much cheese so it was a lite dish with a lot of flavor.
Monday, I've got plans for the leftovers!
Chocolate Tofu Bombs
A few months ago, Mark Bittman posted a recipe for chocolate pudding made with tofu on his blog. You need to suspend disbelief and try this -- it's really quite delicious. Your friends won't know they're eating tofu unless you tell them, and since it uses no cream you won't need to do as much penance at the gym the next day.
I like tofu a lot, more than chocolate, so was keen to try the recipe. Plus, Travis was coming for dinner and he's lactose intolerant, so the experiment was afoot. The chocolate-ness and consistency are great in the Bittman recipe, but it's too sweet for my taste. A few adjustments later, I've settled on proportions to my taste; the recipe follows. Travis has made this for friends, and I've used it as filling for tarts and pastries. Yesterday I made profiteroles, or as I call them, chocolate tofu bombs, for some friends.
1/2 cup water (or you could substitute coffee)
1/2 cup sugar
8 oz. or so of bittersweet chocolate. (The recipe calls for 8 oz, but Scharffen Berger is sold in 9.5 oz blocks. Close enough.)
1 tsp. vanilla
1 pound silken tofu. (The brand of silken tofu that Whole Foods carries weighs a few ounces short of a pound. Close enough.)
Heat the water and completely dissolve the sugar in it. Then, melt the chocolate in it. Mix this in the food processor with the tofu and vanilla.
At this point, you can just go ahead and chill the pudding, or you can tinker with the flavoring. A bit of cinnamon and cayenne as Bittman suggests are quite good, though I use less spice than he does. I've also zested orange rind into the pudding, which is especially good when it's used as a layer in a tart or torte. Or, you can whisk it to get some air incorporated for a more mousse-like texture.
I used an almost plain version (no flavorings except vanilla and just a light touch of cinnamon) to make profiteroles, though if there had been any coffee made, would have used that instead of water. For the pastry shell, make a pate choux, which is an egg dough that is commonly used for eclairs. It's really simple and quick to whip up:
6 TBSP butter
1 cup water
a pinch of salt
2 tsp sugar
1 cup flour
4 eggs
Bring the butter, water, salt and sugar to simmer, then turn off the heat. Stir in the flour all at once and keep stirring until it clumps into a ball, about a minute. Let this cool for a few minutes. Stir in the eggs one at a time, mixing until each one is fully incorporated. Cool the dough in the refrigerator for half an hour (or up to a day if you like).
Line a pan with parchment or silpat. Then, drop little teaspoons of dough, about the size of a grape, onto the sheets. I forgot how much this dough puffs up, so last night used mounds of dough about the size of a ping-pong ball cut in half. The resulting pastries were about the size of a plum, so two or three bites. That's okay, but it can be a bit squishy to bite into once filled. The littler ones are single-bite size. Whatever size you like is fine, though.
Bake at 400 for 20 minutes without opening the oven door. Then, at the end of 20 minutes, turn off the heat in the oven and crack the door ajar a few inches. After 5 minutes, you can take the pastries out of the oven. The transition keeps them from collapsing.
You can fill the pastry by poking a little hole in the side, then piping the chocolate-tofu in with a pastry bag. Or, you can split it in half, fill like an oreo (or an eclair), and put the tops back on. Dust with powdered sugar if you like.
I like tofu a lot, more than chocolate, so was keen to try the recipe. Plus, Travis was coming for dinner and he's lactose intolerant, so the experiment was afoot. The chocolate-ness and consistency are great in the Bittman recipe, but it's too sweet for my taste. A few adjustments later, I've settled on proportions to my taste; the recipe follows. Travis has made this for friends, and I've used it as filling for tarts and pastries. Yesterday I made profiteroles, or as I call them, chocolate tofu bombs, for some friends.
1/2 cup water (or you could substitute coffee)
1/2 cup sugar
8 oz. or so of bittersweet chocolate. (The recipe calls for 8 oz, but Scharffen Berger is sold in 9.5 oz blocks. Close enough.)
1 tsp. vanilla
1 pound silken tofu. (The brand of silken tofu that Whole Foods carries weighs a few ounces short of a pound. Close enough.)
Heat the water and completely dissolve the sugar in it. Then, melt the chocolate in it. Mix this in the food processor with the tofu and vanilla.
At this point, you can just go ahead and chill the pudding, or you can tinker with the flavoring. A bit of cinnamon and cayenne as Bittman suggests are quite good, though I use less spice than he does. I've also zested orange rind into the pudding, which is especially good when it's used as a layer in a tart or torte. Or, you can whisk it to get some air incorporated for a more mousse-like texture.
I used an almost plain version (no flavorings except vanilla and just a light touch of cinnamon) to make profiteroles, though if there had been any coffee made, would have used that instead of water. For the pastry shell, make a pate choux, which is an egg dough that is commonly used for eclairs. It's really simple and quick to whip up:
6 TBSP butter
1 cup water
a pinch of salt
2 tsp sugar
1 cup flour
4 eggs
Bring the butter, water, salt and sugar to simmer, then turn off the heat. Stir in the flour all at once and keep stirring until it clumps into a ball, about a minute. Let this cool for a few minutes. Stir in the eggs one at a time, mixing until each one is fully incorporated. Cool the dough in the refrigerator for half an hour (or up to a day if you like).
Line a pan with parchment or silpat. Then, drop little teaspoons of dough, about the size of a grape, onto the sheets. I forgot how much this dough puffs up, so last night used mounds of dough about the size of a ping-pong ball cut in half. The resulting pastries were about the size of a plum, so two or three bites. That's okay, but it can be a bit squishy to bite into once filled. The littler ones are single-bite size. Whatever size you like is fine, though.
Bake at 400 for 20 minutes without opening the oven door. Then, at the end of 20 minutes, turn off the heat in the oven and crack the door ajar a few inches. After 5 minutes, you can take the pastries out of the oven. The transition keeps them from collapsing.
You can fill the pastry by poking a little hole in the side, then piping the chocolate-tofu in with a pastry bag. Or, you can split it in half, fill like an oreo (or an eclair), and put the tops back on. Dust with powdered sugar if you like.
Why the blog?
I fiddle with recipe ideas, usually based on some kind of inspiration -- travel, an interesting dish in a restaurant, something that looked good in the store, or a recipe from a magazine or cookbook -- tempered by what's available in the markets (or the fridge) and what sounds good to eat that day. I'll work with an idea until I get distracted by a new idea. For example, last year we went to Paris, had a wonderful week that included a lot of time in charming cafes eating great food and drinking local wine. I was on a french cooking kick for about six months after that. The problem is that I'll making something really good, then forget what I did, so the blog is a journal to remind me of past efforts, kind of like the pile of recipes in the kitchen drawer. Also, Aaron's a great cook, so if I blog about something he makes that I really like, then perhaps he'll make it again. It's worth hoping.
About my cooking -- it's ovo-lacto vegetarian, heavy on the vegetables, and I try to eat healthily without getting bored. Any meat ideas you'll find here will come from guest postings. We're lucky enough to live in the bay area, with year-round access to fresh, seasonal produce, and with diversity of markets that offer foods and spices from many different regions and cuisines. It's foodie heaven here. The wine is great, too, but that's another post at some point.
Thanks for reading, and feel free to comment or send me posts.
About my cooking -- it's ovo-lacto vegetarian, heavy on the vegetables, and I try to eat healthily without getting bored. Any meat ideas you'll find here will come from guest postings. We're lucky enough to live in the bay area, with year-round access to fresh, seasonal produce, and with diversity of markets that offer foods and spices from many different regions and cuisines. It's foodie heaven here. The wine is great, too, but that's another post at some point.
Thanks for reading, and feel free to comment or send me posts.
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